With all the necessary "US Parts" in hand, the project resumed by first assembling the lower
receiver. I didn't take a whole bunch of pics on this process, but used some of the pics from
the "Kit Preparation" pages to give visual reference to the various parts I'll refer to as I
describe (in words) how the assembly went. Before we get started, I must comment on a small issue
with using Duplicolor 1200º paint. Even though it was appied in thin coats, it's thick and
required a little extra time in removing paint from holes and parts that slide/rotate with each
other to ensure a smooth function of the parts. Something to remember when you're painting the
parts, is to ensure you mask off as much as you can to minimize this issue. Anyways, let's get
crackin' on assembling the lower receiver!!!
Above is a pic of the hammer, trigger and sear (H/T/S) assembly that shows how the parts relate
to each other. Inset pic (Lower Right) shows the "US Mark" on the FSE trigger that is also found on
all their other parts. One minor issue with the FSE trigger, was that the trigger pin hole on the side
of the stamping was just a tad small. Some emory cloth stuck to a small dowel cleaned it up easily.
This ensured that the trigger will rotate on the pin and not the pin rotate in the receiver which
would adversely affect trigger pull. After the holes in the receiver where the various pins go
through were dressed up with a small piece of emory cloth on a pin punch, the H/T/S went together
smoothly.
All
parts were given a little dab of "Gunslick" (Inset Pic Top Left) to aid in lubrication and ensure
an even and smooth break in of the new parts. I use gunslick on all of my guns in the H/T/S assemblies.
The quickness of assembling the H/T/S was aided immeasurably by using a little trick I learned from
Gunplumber's video. I
manufactured a little "guide pin" (Inset Pic Top Right) to hold the trigger and sear in place to
ease lining up all the holes as I inserted the trigger pin through the receiver. Next I installed
the hammer by lining it up with the hammer pin holes in the receiver and pushing the pin in from
right to left. Next insert the hammer/trigger pivot pin retaining plate onto the notch in the hammer
pin then rotate it to ride on top of the trigger pin's notch and line up the hole where the selector
lever goes. Insert the selector lever with the knob at the 12 O'clock position, then rotate it to the
"On Safe" notch. All that is left, is to insert the hammer strut assembly into it's respective slot on
the hammer and compress it enough to slip into it's dimpled slot in the receiver.
Before
moving on to the next step, I installed the trigger guard in it's respective slot in the receiver,
then installed the pistol grip. After that was done, I performed a function test to ensure the
assembly functions properly. First, cock the hammer and place the selector to "Safe" to ensure
the trigger is blocked and the hammer doesn't fall no matter how hard you pull on the trigger.
Next, place the selector on "Fire" and the hammer *should* fall when the trigger is pulled.
While still holding the trigger to the rear, recock the hammer. Slowly release the trigger
while watching the hammer, and you *should* see it raise up a small bit (See above pics)
and feel/hear a noticeable click. Mine passed with flying colors and the trigger seems to
be fairly smooth with very little creep. The assembly of the H/T/S may sound a bit complicated,
but it's not!! =)
Moving on, I next installed the upper receiver latch and takedown lever assembly. It's pretty
much a "no brainer" to install if you've taken it out before. Look at the pic above to get an
idea how the parts relate to each other. After applying a little oil to the latch body, slide
it into it's hole in the back of the receiver ensuring the beveled edge goes up and the flat
edge is down. Then slide it in far enough to line up the notch that the takedown lever engages
and insert the takedown lever. Move the lever up and down to ensure it is properly engaging the
latch and that it moves freely. Next, insert the latch spring and plunger into the latch itself.
Using a punch or dowel, press the plunger in enough to where you can insert the cross pin that
retains the plunger just enough to hold it in so you can remove the dowel or punch. Next take a
small hammer to drive the cross pin home. All that is left, is to insert the small combination
pin/set-screw into it's threaded hole in the back of the receiver. This little devil keeps the
takedown lever from backing out of the receiver, so don't forget it! That's all there is to
it!
Next, I installed the buttstock onto the receiver. I ordered a "STG" style buttstock because
I didn't like the hump at the rear of the buttstock that came in the kit. This is personal preference
only, as the original could just as well have been used. Since the buttstock wasn't the original
that came in the kit, a small amount of sanding was needed on the face of the buttstock where it
mates up with the rear of the receiver to remove any gaps. I then inserted the lightly oiled recoil
plunger and plunger spring into the buttstock then slid the buttstock nut onto the buttstock tool
and compressed the spring to tighten the nut onto the recoil tube. I then installed the screw
that holds the front of the buttstock to the tang on the underside of the receiver. All that was
left, was to install the buttpad and screw it down snug.
I was hoping to have the "Para Style" rear sight to install on the lower receiver, but at this time
it hasn't come in yet. I suspect it'll be here on Monday or next week sometime. There's nothing wrong
with the stock rear sight, this is just another one of those personal preference type things. I'll
descibe how the stock rear sight goes back together and install it on mine while waiting for the Para.
As describe in the Kit Prep pages, my rear sight aperture housing was a tad loose and wobbled on the
rear sight base. I'll rehash how I fixed it in case ya missed it. I took the sight aperture housing
out to the vise to squeeze it for a tighter fit. If yours is loose also, be sure and not use too much
force to squeeze it, as you CAN go too far. Even though *I* was warned of this, I still applied a bit
to much force. All was not lost though.. I was able to take a pair of outside circlip pliers I had
handy that were used when I built VW engines, to spread the housing back out a skosh. I now have a
very smooth, but tight rear sight assembly that doesn't wobble!! =)
At the time I refinished the lower receiver and other parts, I hadn't planned on replacing the
rear sight. The original rear sight received the paint on finish, and also required a bit of
judicious re-fitting by sanding down in certain spots so the aperture would slide back and forth
without being too damned tight. Using a little dab of grease on the push button spring, I inserted
it into the aperture housing then slid the button into the housing behind it. Next, I slid the
aperture housing onto the rear site base then installed the small pin that keeps the aperture
housing from sliding off, up into the rear site base. Next, I put another dab of grease on the
"S" spring thingy and placed it on the underside of the rear sight base, then slid the whole
assembly into the dovetail of the receiver. Lastly, I lined up the witness marks on the receiver
and rear sight base and inserted the windage adjustment screws on each side of the receiver.
Tada!!! Above is a pic of the completed lower receiver. The rear sling swivel is missing because
I plan to refinish the buttstock, pistol grip, handguards and... I forgot to refinish the
swivel. =) No worries, I had planned to "test fire" the carbine in this condition anyways and save
the furniture coating for later in case any alterations need to be done. It actually took longer to
type the descriptions of assembling the lower, than it did to do it. =) Next on the list is the
"Upper Receiver Assembly"
so Stay Tuned!!!
Shoot Safe!!!
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